My Seoul Coffee Journey

There are over 17,000 coffee shops in Seoul.

I wasn’t actually sure if I read that right.

I had just begun the arduous task of researching for my upcoming trip to South Korea, the kimchi capital of the world. Six days and 17,000 coffee shops – Evidently, I was in over my head.

Felt

In any good relationship, there is a fine line between lover and flat out obsessor – I, admittedly and without shame, am less coffee lover, more coffee obsessor. My love for this magic elixir has no bounds and the obsession travels further as I do. This time, I would be going as far as Seoul – a new territory with an incredibly complex scene of yet-to-be explored coffee shops and roasteries along with other must-sees, must-dos and must-eats. What I love most about my caffeinated journeys is experiencing how different cities approach coffee and how it intertwines into a culture. Coffee, for the most part is globally relevant across all cities but Seoul has this enigmatic, obsessive love for caffeine pumping through its veins. I am going to feel right at home, I thought.

I was once advised by a barista friend to seek out coffee shops that offer manual brewing options, that is the clearest indication that a coffee shop is a true specialty spot and that advice has always stuck with me. Oh you don’t offer a pour over? Girl bye. So, I filtered through the hundreds of themed cafes – everything from cute cats to cuddly bears, all slightly tempting – I won’t lie. Talented baristas are in the thousands, all like Picasso with mad skills in intricate latte art, but of course I swiped left on all coffee chains, which stood prominently at every street corner. A true coffee obsessor seeks out specialty coffee; chains are aplenty but must be avoided at all costs!

Curlean Coffee Bar

On ground in Seoul, I was quickly able to immerse myself into the coffee shop scene. I observed a coffee shop every 500 meters or so but his girl sticks to her obsessively researched list. Though I may have peered through the glass windows at some that caught my eye, I embarked on two to three coffee shops per day – mere needles in a haystack, really.
Curlean Coffee was our first fuel stop. I circled around this coffee shop for about twenty minutes until I actually found it. Located on the second floor of a mini mall, it is sandwiched between a scattering of offices, travel agencies and convenient stores. We had to ask someone exactly where it was and it was one of those “turn left, turn right, turn right again, second door on the left” situations as I stared at my husband making sure he was absorbing this. Walking in, I sensed I was in for a treat. It was bright, airy and calming – in complete contrast to the chaotic journey we took to reach here. A glistening white slayer machine caught my eye as I ordered a cup of the Ethiopian: well balanced, clean with fruity and lime notes and of course, the most gorgeous latte art on the surface.

We tried our best to use Google Translate as much as possible but were often faced with a language barriers while ordering, so the origins of a few cups still remain a mystery. Though, I have realized that sometimes it’s okay, you just have to be able to go with the flow and let yourself be immersed. In situations like these, I would say ‘give us your best coffee’ gesturing a two thumbs up – that was enough for a stellar coffee. One of those experiences was at Fave Coffee Bar, where I had the most incredible flat white. Origin is of course, forever unknown but coffee never forgotten. Enjoying my cup with their all-French butter pain au chocolat and a street view window seat more than made up for the mystery.

Fave Coffee Bar

We must be in the wrong neighborhood.

There is no rhyme or reason to the coffee shop placement within Seoul. Some cafés were found in the most obscure albeit charming back alleyways while others were on the third floor of a commercial mall. It was the perfect juxtaposition to the city – old meets new, working in cadent harmony. Namusairo Coffee represented this dichotomy to a tee. Walking to Namusairo we passed consulates, government buildings and official offices one after another after another, as I frantically kept checking the map. Namusairo, though translated as ‘through the trees,’ should really be ‘through the consulates.’ The design and aesthetics of the café are incredibly different to the neighborhood it calls home. Reminiscent of traditional Hanok architecture with wooden panels and a dreamy outdoor courtyard, Namusairo felt like a hidden oasis in the middle of the city. Known for their pour overs, I opted for the Rwandan origin, a beautifully clean cup with notes of caramel, chocolate and orange. An added bonus: cacao dusted almonds accompany as a side nibble.

Namusario Coffee Bar

Sinchon, a youthful, vibrant part of town is particularly reminiscent of a student-like feel due to proximity to a number of universities in the area. I spent a few hours here exploring the winding little streets full of charming boutiques, bookstores and eateries.

Felt Coffee is the epitome of Instagrammable minimalism. The barista was quietly reading a book by the window in between making coffees while a vintage record player serenaded the coffee shop with soft jazz. Dreamy. I chose their vanilla latte, which marks an unusual choice for me – I usually don’t opt for added flavors or sweeteners. The syrup is made from crushed vanilla beans that complement the coffee in the most ambrosial way, drawing out their sweet caramel and nutty notes.  The coffee shop scene in Seoul is Level Elevated Hipster, I observed. Overwhelmingly complex but stunning coffeehouses, they are committed to serving quality brew. Unlike most cities, coffee shops in Seoul don’t usually open until midday around noon, but they do stay open till the wee hours of the night. These hours are so telling of the nuances of café culture in Seoul, unfazed by the Western speedy in-and-out morning coffee but instead, enjoying it as a slower leisurely activity. Typical scenes include a group of girlfriends catching up over cortados and the obligatory selfies while others sit by the window, reading or scrolling.